Trevor Rock Climbing - Recently Updated Pages

Graffiti Walls Bouldering

JossThomas — Wed, 09 Sep 2009 06:42:16 CDT

This is a lovely spot very near to Trevor. It has an abundance of easy boulder problems on hard sandstone with high friction. The area has been climbed for years but this is the first time the routes have been mapped and graded.

It was originally mentioned in Stuart Cathcarts'
Clwyd Limestone guidebook of 1983.
Access is extremely easy and you can park right next to the climbing. Many of the easy problems have good grassy landings so its safe to climb them without a mat. There are three areas offering some fine slab climbing, a juggy corner and a steep crimpy wall with problems up to V1.

Click here for a map link.

The problems are listed from left to right.

Scoop Wall

The steep wall on the left hand side of the crag with a scoop feature on its left hand side.
Superb climbing, steep and crimpy.

1. The Scoop V1*
The Scoop Starts where the steep wall forms a vague arête turning into an obvious scoop.Gain 3 crimps to move up before rocking over delicately into the scoop to finish at its leftmost corner.

2. Blinkered V0+
Climb the narrow wall without using holds on the left edge that enters the scoop nor the flake holds on the right. Starts in the same place as The Scoop. Thanks to Dave Humphries for this route detail.

3. The Flake V0+
Lovely climbing up the right facing flake, a metre to the right of the crescent shaped scoop.

4. Left Cack V1
The leftmost of the two cracks on the Scoop Wall, just right of the flake. Follow the line up the crack on pleasant crimps.

5. Right Crack V0
The rightmost of the two cracks on the Scoop Wall, finishes at the break and has a headwall and arete directly above it, which can be continued as a very highball finish.

Hazel Tree Area

An obvious corner with an overhang beneath a large tree.

6. Hazel Tree Face V0
Enjoyable climbing up the lower wall’s face at its highest point, left of the corner. A big stretch reaches the ledge above.

7. Hazel tree Corner V0-
The obvious corner.

8. Hazel Tree Overhang V0 (pictured)
Climb the overhang under the large tree from directly beneath the cracked block without feet in the left wall.

Holber Wall

A large wall with the word 'Holber' sprayed onto it.

9. Holber Wall V0
Start at the letter R of the word 'Holber' graffiti, pulling up through a small overhang, continue directly up.

10. Holber Wall Crack V0+
To the right of the previous route, a block lies under the Hawthorn tree in the middle break. Use its right arête and crack to climb up to the ledge.

11. Holbers Jug V0
To the right of the last route, this problem uses only 2 holds (or 3 if you are short.) Clear the lower wall using a juggy block above at arms length height. Pull up using a long stretch or dyno to the juggy ledge. Mantelshelf finish.

12.Holbers Dyno V0
A one move wonder up the overhanging block on the left of Holbers Wall. Start with both hands in the S of the word ‘Sorted’ which is graffiti’d on the rock. Possible dyno or static using either of two small crimps.

13. Holbers Traverse V0
A ground level traverse of the Holber Wall, using the obvious jug ledge. Stay on till a tricky final move leads to the word ‘Sorted’ in graffiti on the rock.

Taffys Wall

A large slabby block with the word 'Taffy' sprayed on it.

14. Heart Wall V0-
To the left of Taffys Wall is a short wall with a heart shape sprayed in graffiti. Climb the centre of the wall on crimps to a mantelshelf finish.

15. Taffy's Left Crack V0-
On the left facing side of Taffys Wall is a short crack which is trickier than it looks with a mantelshelf finish.

16. Taffys Arete V0-
The left and prominent arete of Taffys Wall.

17. Taffy's Wall V0
The large slabby face with its lower left corner missing and prominent arete on left.Start at the letter "A" in Taffy graffiti and climb direct.

18. Taffys Right Hand V0+
Climb slab using the right hand edge. Thanks to Dave Humphries for this route detail.

19. Hawthorn Crack V0
To the right of a descent gully and adjacent to Taffy's Wall is an angular block with a crack running up its centre. Its slightly trickier than you'd expect.

20. The Circuit V1
Climb all the problems in succession.

DOG WALL

JossThomas — Sun, 16 Aug 2009 03:04:34 CDT

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This wall is located in between Fudd Wall and Furry Wall and is the location of a route called Hot Dog, grade 4, as seen in the Clwyd Limestone guidebook. The wall has recently had new routes added to it since the publishing of the current guidebook .To the right of Hot Dog are four new sport climbs and to the left of Hot Dog is a new trad route.

From left to right.
1. If I had all the money I spent on drink, I'd spend it on drink, poor protection. HVS 4c
2. Hot Dog, 4.
3. Dogmatic, 6a. New: August 2009.
4. Deputy Dog, 4+.
5. Dogs of War, 6a+.
6. K9, 5.

Welcome to the Trevor Rock Climbing website

JossThomas — Sun, 16 Aug 2009 03:02:57 CDT

The Trevor Quarry Area has recently become one of Wales' premier venues for beginner and intermediate Sport Rock Climbing.

Overlooking the beautiful Llangollen Valley and the River Dee, it is a perfect and user friendly venue which hosts a wealth of sport climbing routes from friendly grade 4's to mean 6c's.

There are also a number of Traditional Rock Climbs in the area as well.

CLICK HERE TO ENTER THE SITE

DM WALLS

JossThomas — Sun, 16 Aug 2009 02:54:42 CDT

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The Wings is a brand new area, not listed in the current guidebook.
This wall is located around 200 metres further down from Fudd Wall. There is some graffiti on the wall, the intitials "DM" have been sctratched into the rock.
There are 13 new routes (listed form left to right):

1. Coed in the coed(5) Short steep wall and slabby groove above. Bolted by Gary Gibson November 2007.

2. Maevanwy (5+) Short wall and shallow scoop leading to a black face with a hard finish. Bolted by Gary Gibson November 2007. Originally graded 6a+!

3. Ogre in the Ogof(5) Straightforward and sustained climbing to a bulge finish. Bolted by Gary Gibson November 2007. Horrendous Lower Off.

4. Scratching the Surface (5) Starts via a shallow groove above the graffiti and continues via a small overlap and easy finish. Bolted by Gary Gibson November 2007.

5. Sgrech yr Hebog (5+) * A shallow groove right of the graffiti, a tricky step up leads to the break. Easier above. F.A. Joss Thomas, Second John Norman. 22 June 2007.

6. Raptor Rap (5+) To the right of the previous climb is a shallow groove with a higher first bolt. Finishes at the same lower-off. F.A John Norman, Second Joss Thomas. 22 June 2007.

7. Merlin Magic (4+) The vague arete to the right with a high first bolt. Easier above the ledge. F.A. John Norman. 29 June 2007

8. Cwm buy a Thrill (5+)

9. Cwm, Cwm and Cwm Again (4) Bolted byGary Gibson November 2007. Removed in 2009 due to proximity to nesting peregrines.

10. The Last Llath (5) again pleasant via a shallow groove to a blunt upper rib. Care in the central section needed. Bolted by Gary Gibson November 2007.

11. The Full Nine Llaths. Bolted by Gary Gibson November 2007.

12. Dim Parcio (4) * the left-hand side of the face to the right finishing via a rib. Bolted by Gary Gibson November 2007.

13. Welsh Fargo (5) * the scoop and wall to the right finishing on a flake above a bush. Bolted by Gary Gibson November 2007.

14. Slow Araf Slow (6a) the wall to the right crossing a flake to an easy finish. Bolted by Gary Gibson November 2007.

Over Yr Walls

JossThomas — Sun, 16 Aug 2009 02:52:51 CDT

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This newest area lies between Fudd Wall and DM Walls,
Routes from right to left, with Fudd Wall on the right, DM Walls to the left:

The first three routes are on a shield of solid rock with a break and wall above.
1.Adrafelin What? (4+) Starts with a shallow scoop ascending a rib above, originally graded 5.
2.Christmas goes Crackers (6a) * Tricky start with thin moves above, originally graded 5.
3.Over Yr, on my Heddlu (5) Tricky 1st clip with easier moves above.

The next routes start to the left near a small tree
4.Canal Canol (5+) * Obvious overhang with large jugs and easier above, originally graded 6a.
A Dim View of Things (6a) left-hand side of overlap with blunt rib above.

6.The Welsh Wizard (4) A slabby face and right hand rib.
7.Free Wales (4) * The slabby face and left of a blunt rib.
8.The Valley's Initiative (5+) A shallow groove and overlap.9.Bath in the Taff (6a) * Slabb face through a bulge and a groove above.
10.Dai Laughing (5) * Slab and rib above.
11.A Rare bit of Welsh (5+) tricky start followed befora afeace and rib above.1
2.Yr, Yr, Yr (6a+) shallow scoop and short tricky wall above the nice overlap.
13.Cwm Over Yr (4) the slab and blunt rib above

Climbing Areas

JossThomas — Sun, 16 Aug 2009 02:50:09 CDT

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The Trevor area consists of nine different limestone walls. From left to right (starting with the furthest away from the main car parking layby) are:

DM WALLS, NEW AREA
OVER YR WALLS, NEW AREA
FUDD WALL (Bird Nesting Restrictions Apply)
DOG WALL
FURRY WALL
COMPACT WALL
IMPACT WALL
RAILWAY BUTTRESS
SUSPECT WALL
TREVOR MAIN QUARRY
INDEPENDENCE QUARRY (Bird Nesting Restrictions Apply)

LOCAL BOULDERING

New Routes

JossThomas — Sun, 16 Aug 2009 02:47:40 CDT

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To date there have been 58 new routes added to the Trevor area since the publication of the last guidebook. These are listed in the relevant area pages, and can be viewed by clicking the area names on this page.

Several new routes have been climbed near the route Hot Dog to create Dog Wall.

There are also new routes to the right of Compact Wall and near Railway Buttress.

NEW AREAS! DM Walls
Over Yr Walls

Gary Gibson gave us another new area with the bolting of 20 climbs at Independence Quarry and he also came back to bolt his existing trad routes on the Trevor Main Quarry, as well as 3 new sport routes in the Suspect Wall area.

Local Bouldering

JossThomas — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 15:43:27 CDT

There are a few local bouldering areas in the local area, welll worth a visit for an evening of messing about after a day at the crags.

Monument Boulders

Craig y Moch

Graffiti Walls Bouldering

Trevor Main Quarry

SITE CONTENTS: TREVOR ROCK CLIMBING

JossThomas — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 15:28:53 CDT

Click on the following links to access your chosen page.

ABOUT THIS SITE

LOCATION AND DIRECTIONS

**NEW ROUTES** GRADED LIST

GUIDEBOOKS CLIMBING AREAS

BIRD NESTING RESTRICTIONS GALLERY

LOCAL BOULDERING ARTICLES

USEFUL LINKS

Graded List

JossThomas — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 13:49:55 CDT

Here are a selection of routes at Trevor that
have earnt a so called "star" status at each grade.

6c/6c+ Traction Control
Margin of Error
Clever Trevor
This way to Clitheroe
Mud Slide Slim
Suspect Device
Trabucco

6b Crime Scene
Suspect Criminal
Fudd Off
Fuddites
Checkpoint Charlie
Lost Control
Impact Imminent
Under Suspicion

6a+ Borderline
Super Furry Frogs
Over The wall
Great Escape
Dogs of War
Forever the Suspect

6a No Reptiles
Long Legged Lizard
Havent got a Clue
Dogmatic
Canal Canol
Bath in the Taff

5+ Sgrech Yr Hebog,
Cluedo
Christmas goes crackers

5 Sudden Impact,
Innocence
Welsh Fargo
Dai Laughing

4/4+ Clue, so?
Hot Dog
Dim Parcio
Free Wales

RAILWAY BUTTRESS

JossThomas — Fri, 31 Jul 2009 10:40:34 CDT

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A popular venue for trad beginners. The climbing is relatively easy, and a bombproof stake is at the top of the face, on a grassed ledge to make a solid belay. This small crag offers excellent views of Dinas Bran Castle as you are belaying at the top!

New Routes

Yummy Brummy 3+
Trevor's easiest route is located 10 metres to the lleft of Railway Buttress, near where it joins Impact Wall.

The Boiler House, VS4b.
A new trad route on the buttress itself. To the right of The Fat Controller, ascend the chimney to the overhang. Turn the overhang to the right, climb the steep wall to a good ledge. Step left onto the nose and climb up.

Location and Directions

JossThomas — Sat, 29 Sep 2007 08:15:10 CDT

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Getting to Trevor is relatively straightforward and there is a good parking layby below Trevor Main Quarry.

An ordnance survey map of the area is available by clicking here.

There are several ways to approach the crags, but the easiest is to pass through the village of Trevor on the A539, heading towards Llangollen. After 2 miles, a long straight road reveals the Sun Trevor Pub on the right. Turn right, passing the pub, and follow this road which climbs up the hill for almost two miles. At a sharp T junction (blink and you will miss it!) take a sharp right turn. Carry on along this road for 400 metres to arrive at the main Trevor layby on the left.
The Trevor Main Quarry is the steep wall which can be seen overlooking this layby. Take the footpath leading from the carpark, gain the flat path (the old railway track) and take a right for Trevor Main Quarry or left for all other areas.
Facing out into the valley, Independance Quarry lies further down to the left. A grassy path leads to it after crossing the road.

CLICK HERE FOR CLIMBING AREAS

Useful Links

JossThomas — Sat, 15 Sep 2007 14:07:49 CDT

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Click the green titles to link to other web sites of interest.

Local Climbing Walls

The local area has two excellent clilmbing walls within a few miles distance, should the weather turn on you.

Plas Power Adventure
A great wall based at Southsea near Wrexham with an excellent cafe and good atmosphere.

Plas Madoc Leisure Centre
A climbing wall in a converted squash court at the local leisure centre. Small, but dont let the size decieve you, there are plenty of routes and some excellent bouldering.

Climbing Clubs

Really love climbing? Want to learn new skills and meet like minded people?
See the website of Clwyd Mountaineering Club, one of North Wales' largest and most active clubs. Weekly meets in Snowdonia, regular beginners meets and foreign trips organised.

Siarad Cymraeg? If you are a Welsh speaker or learner and would like to climb, walk or scramble with other Welsh speakers then try the website of Clwb Mynydda Cymru:The Welsh Mountaineering Club.

Other Web Sites

UK Climbing
The UK's most popular website for all things relative to rock climbing. News, forums, route databases and photo galleries.

Sports Climbs
The website of Gary Gibson, who bolted the majority of the sports climbs at Trevor.

Gallery

JossThomas — Sat, 02 Jun 2007 12:34:44 CDT

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About this Site

JossThomas — Sat, 02 Jun 2007 12:13:41 CDT

This website is not intended to replace any guidebook for the area, and for this reason I have not included a definitive list of routes for the area. There are several excellent guidebooks covering the Trevor Area which are mentioned on the Guidebooks page. The main objective of the site is to record and display information about the significant number of new routes that have recently been climbed and bolted in this area.This information can be found on the New Routes page.

The site is also an appreciation of this beautiful Welsh place where many people are first intoduced to climbing, and where many return to enjoy the wealth of varied routes that this place has to offer.

Have fun and be safe!

Joss

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SUSPECT WALL

JossThomas — Sat, 02 Jun 2007 12:11:36 CDT

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Three new sport routes here since the last guidebook.
To the right of Sam's the Man are:

1. A Leaf out of Sam's Book (6a+)

2. Sam-Sam, the Pan Man (6b)

3. Sam-Sam Alert (6a+)

COMPACT WALL

JossThomas — Sat, 02 Jun 2007 12:06:10 CDT

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Without doubt, the best that Trevor has to offer. This wall has some high quality climbing on it. Its scary to think that before the bolting of this wall in 2005, the routes were actually climbed trad style by the very few who were brave enough to take the risk of hard climbing on minimal protection.

New Routes

Over to the right end of Compact Wall, another wall juts out by a Sycamore tree.
The first new Route starts alongside this tree, and the rest to the right of this.

1. Left Handed Fool,VS4b.
Start at the prominent steep crack behind the Sycamore tree. Follow this to the break and move right onto the arete to a stake belay.
2. Catch the Pigeon, 4+.
Start directly below the first bolt. Climb the black wall past the small hawthorn tree and over the break to a tricky finish on the wall above. One of Trevor's longest sport routes with a good exposed position.
3. Prof Pat Pending 6a+.
An eliminate that stays in the brown speckled groove. Shares a lower off with Ant Hill Mob.
4. Ant Hill Mob, 5.
Start 7 metres to the right of "Catch the Pigeon". After a tricky start, climb the short steep wall on good holds. Shares a lower off with Prof Pat Pending.

FUDD WALL

JossThomas — Sat, 02 Jun 2007 12:03:18 CDT

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A short wall of Trad and Sport climbs, The furthest area from the main car park layby.

Guidebooks

JossThomas — Sat, 02 Jun 2007 07:01:00 CDT

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The first rock climbing guidebook to include the Trevor area was Clwyd Limestone by Stuart Cathcart, published in 1983 by Cicerone Press. This was updated and released as Clwyd Rock 1993 by Gary Dickinson. These books have sadly gone out of print (although it is possible to find copies turning up on ebay and amazon).
In 2005, Rockfax published Clwyd Limestone by Lee Proctor and Mark Glaister. This is an excellent gudebook, with easy to read topos and full colour photographs. Several new routes have been created since this guidebook, and details if these routes can be found on the New Routes page.

Articles

JossThomas — Sun, 13 May 2007 11:57:35 CDT

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If you would like to contribute an article to the website, please apply to become a writer by clicking here.